Most of us who holiday in Spain go south. But head north, along the Basque coast and beyond, and you’ll find what I believe is one of the best road trips in Europe. Quiet coastal roads, world-class food and dramatic coastline, all still feeling genuinely undiscovered.
I'd visited various parts of Spain before, but nothing prepared me for how different it was. The landscape was greener, the architecture had its own distinct character, and even the language was unlike anything else. It ended up being one of our favourite parts of the entire 3-month road trip.
This is my tried-and-tested 5-day Northern Spain itinerary, put together while researching my Road Trip Spain guidebook. I drove every mile, visited over 100 locations and got plenty wrong along the way. What’s left is exactly where I’d go, where I’d stay and the stops I wouldn’t skip with just five days.
It’s fast-paced, though. If you’ve got seven days or more, slow down and stay a little longer.
Northern Spain was the BIGGEST surprise of our entire Spain road trip!
Day 1 – San Sebastian to Zarautz
Our northern Spain adventure began in San Sebastián, or Donostia as it's known locally, which sits on the Bay of Biscay and is backed by beautiful green hills. We only had a few hours here, but it didn't take long to realise this place was pretty special.
I'd head straight for the Old Quarter, where there's enough going on to fill a whole day. Impressive buildings are dotted all over the historic centre, so don't forget to look up as you wander. The 18th-century Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus is the standout and the neo-classical frontage of the 19th-century Goikoa Palace is worth a look too.
Lunch is a pintxos crawl, and honestly, it's the highlight of the day. Move from bar to bar, ordering just one signature bite, washed down with txakoli, a dry local white with a slight fizz. Order the hot pintxos off the chalkboard rather than pointing at the trays — those are cooked fresh when you ask.
Old Quarter, San Sebastian / Hans Jurgen-Weinhardt, Unsplash
From there, it's a short walk to La Concha, the city's ridiculously pretty beach. We took Milo and Gem for a stroll along the front, and it's easy to see why it's so often called one of the best urban beaches in Europe. The water is never that deep, the views are glorious, and at low tide you can follow the path through the rocks to Ondarreta beach next door. If you fancy getting out onto the water, it's also a great spot for a canoe or a paddleboard.
Finish the afternoon on Mount Igeldo. I’d recommend taking the funicular up an hour or two before sunset. The views over the city and that perfect crescent of beach are the best you'll get anywhere on the route, and they're even better with the light starting to soften.
Before your overnight stop, it's a short drive of around 30 minutes west to Zarautz, a lovely seaside town and a good spot for dinner. There are plenty of asadores, or charcoal grills, where you can dine on the freshest whole fish cooked over oak.
Overnight: Gran Camping Zarautz
Drive time: Approx. 30 Minutes
La Concha at night, San Sebastian
Day 2 – Zarautz to Deba
I'd suggest taking the morning slowly in Zarautz. The beach here is the longest on the Basque coast and was once Queen Isabella II's summer spot of choice. Stroll the promenade with mountains on one side and sea on the other, then wander into the historic centre for its Gothic and Renaissance architecture. The Palace of Narros is well worth seeking out.
Then it's just 30 minutes along the coast to Itzurun, one of two beaches that make up Zumaiako hondartza. It's a Blue Flag beach with dark sand, hemmed in by the dramatic striped flysch cliffs used as a backdrop in TV show Game of Thrones. They're not just beautiful to look at, they're also one of the longest continuous rock sequences in the world, with layers going back more than 100 million years.
If you're not in a rush, Zumaia itself is worth a bit more of your time. It's a charming town, and the Geopark runs a one-hour boat crossing from the Txomin Agirre quay to Deba, taking you past the cliffs and into hidden coves you can't reach from land.
Zumaia
Back on the road, take the coast road towards Deba. This was my favourite drive of the trip, twisting and turning along dramatic cliffs above the Bay of Biscay with incredible viewpoints appearing around almost every corner. The contrast between the lush green hills, white sandy beaches, turquoise water and ancient rock formations was simply spectacular.
Deba is a quiet spot and worth an hour or two. Have a look at Santa María, a 15th-century Basque Gothic church with a brightly coloured grand entrance, then stretch your legs on one of its two beaches, Santiago or Lapari. Time it for low tide if you can, when the two join into one enormous stretch of sand. Then it's up into the hills for the night, with views out over the Bay of Biscay.
Overnight: Santa Elena Kanpina in Mutriku
Drive time: 1 Hour 20 Minutes
Deba
Day 3 – Deba to Gaztelugatxeko Doniene
Head along the coast first thing to Lekeitio, a lovely fishing town with sandy beaches and an island sitting right in the middle of the bay. When the tide drops, a stone causeway appears and you can walk out to San Nicolás. We timed it right and had the place almost to ourselves, a proper little pocket of wilderness with pines, seabirds and the ruins of a 15th-century hermitage.
Head inland to Urdaibai Biosfera Erreserba, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve with a bird observatory sat right on the edge of the marshes, where you've got a good chance of spotting spoonbills, herons and waders among the 200 or so species that pass through. Then, just 20 minutes on, you're back at the coast at Laida and Laga, two of the clearest-watered beaches in the Basque Country and a lovely place for a stroll.
Nearby Bermeo is where I'd stop for lunch. It's the most important fishing port in the Basque Country, and between the colourful houses stacked around the old harbour and a good few busy pintxo bars, it ended up being one of our favourite stops of the day.
Then finish the day up the road at Gaztelugatxeko Doniene, a rocky islet reached by a narrow stone bridge and a winding staircase of 241 steps up to a small chapel dedicated to St John the Baptist. Game of Thrones fans will spot it as the approach to Dragonstone, though it's been a place of (non-fantasy) pilgrimage for centuries. Give it a good two hours and go late in the day if you can, the light on the way back up is so worth the climb.
Overnight: Camping & Bungalows Portuondo
Drive time: Approx. 2 Hours 20 Mins
Gaztelugatxeko Doniene
Day 4 – Bakioko Hondartza to Bilbao
Thirty minutes along the coast you'll come to Bakioko Hondartza, a big open beach with strong waves, good surf and green hills behind it. We started the morning here with the dogs and had most of it to ourselves.
Next, head to Plentzia, a relaxed seaside town with a small old quarter sitting right on the estuary. If you want a proper swim, cross the bridge to Gorliz, five minutes away, where the sand opens into a big, sheltered arc.
From there it's on to Getxo, just north of Bilbao and a lovely coastal stop-off. Ereaga Beach is the main draw, backed by grand old villas, and the colourful fishermen's houses around Algorta's Old Port are worth wandering into. The La Galea footpath runs along the clifftops past an 18th-century fort and the Punta Galea lighthouse. Give it an hour if you can, it's the best of Getxo's coastline.
Getxo is also home to the Bizkaia Bridge, the world's first transporter bridge and a UNESCO-listed site. Built in 1893, it still whisks cars and people across the river in a hanging gondola. You can ride it over for less than a euro or take the lift up and cross the pedestrian walkway 50 metres above the water instead. It's a bracing walk and not one for anyone nervous with heights.
You'll land in Portugalete, an old town where the streets climb steeply from the water. Follow them to the top and you'll find the Basilica of Santa María with the 14th-century Salazar Tower beside it. It's a proper leg-burner of a climb, but there are pintxo bars all the way up if you need an excuse to stop.
Then it's a short hop into Bilbao for the night. We stayed in a budget-friendly historic guesthouse right among the city's best pintxo bars, and exactly where you want to be with a full day in the city ahead.
Overnight: Casual Gurea
Drive time: 2 Hours 5 Mins
Getox
Day 5 – Bilbao
Give the last day entirely to Bilbao, a city that's gone from gritty industrial port to one of northern Spain's great cultural stops, packed with art, architecture and food. Leave the van parked up, because everything you'll want to see sits within an easy walk.
I’d suggest starting at Mercado de la Ribera, often billed as the largest covered food market in Europe. It fills a 1929 art deco building on the riverbank with fish, Basque cheeses and cured meats piled high. We had breakfast at one of the counters upstairs and it set us up for the whole day.
Then head to the Guggenheim Museum for 10am, when it opens, to get ahead of the crowds. It's one of the coolest-looking buildings in Spain, designed by Frank Gehry, and we spent a good while outside just taking it in along with the sculptures before we went in. Inside, it's big names and even bigger pieces, Andy Warhol's ten-metre wall of Marilyns among them.
Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao / David Vives @Unsplash
Head back into the Casco Viejo (Old Town) afterwards to wander its medieval streets and colourful buildings. The 14th-century Gothic Catedral de Santiago is the one to seek out. When hunger strikes, make your way to Plaza Nueva, a grand arcaded square that opened in 1851 with a cluster of pintxo bars tucked under the arches on all four sides.
You could finish with a walk back along the river to La Salve Bridge, crossing to the far side for sweeping views over the Guggenheim and the water. We timed it for sunset and it's a beautiful shot of the museum and the river behind it. Or take the easier option and find one of the city's rooftop bars, then wander back to your base in the old quarter.
Overnight: Casual Gurea
Drive time: None